Oma-yee-ha!

Or, monkeying around in Nebraska

Yesterday, I left the wonderful Wilsons for the next leg of my journey, and my next couchsurfing adventure with Colleen and Emily in Omaha, Nebraska. After breakfasting, and repacking, and cleaning out my car (thanks for the vacuum, Nancy!), I said my goodbyes and headed out for one final Beatrice visit: the Gage County Museum.


I must confess, that I didn't stay long at the Gage County Museum because, although I did learn a fair amount, there wasn't a ton of information that directly applied to my novel. That, and I was somewhat discouraged by the less than warm welcome I received from the director of the museum. I asked her if I might be able to take photographs (thinking that there might be a flash photography restriction) and she responded that if I were to take photographs, it would cost me $30 per photograph! She then said that I could purchase reproductions for $2 a piece. She also didn't respond very well to my description of my project, and didn't seem inclined to make herself for questions or help. So, I thanked her and told her if I found any images that I wanted a copy of I would let her know (I didn't), and made my way through the museum on my own.


Though I understand her desire to protect her museum's collection, I was perplexed by her restrictions and lack of warmth. Gage County Museum isn't a very trafficked museum, although it has a good collection and some pretty stand out artifacts, and I would think that she would be interested in the publicity. But no matter: you can't win them all.


After the museum, Aretha and I hit the road for Omaha, and made it there in no time. Since I wasn't supposed to meet up with the lovely Colleen and Emily until 8pm, I went to the Omaha Zoo, a.k.a the Henry Doorly Zoo and Aquarium.


As I have mentioned before, I am "Zoo Girl," but I also have high expectations for zoos coming from San Diego. Well, this zoo is legit. In fact, I was told by Colleen once I met up with her that their zoo recently beat out the San Diego Zoo for best zoo status (I have nothing to corroborate this information with, and prefer to think it is an exaggeration out of some weird, misplaced sense of San Diego pride). Anyway, the zoo is pretty amazing. They have a geodesic domed-in desert environment, an indoor rainforest, a huge nocturnal animal exhibit, a sky tour, and of course, animals galore. I spent three and a half hours wandering around, photographing everything.

The (infamous) Dome

The nocturnal exhibit was pretty stellar, mixing educational areas with animal enclosures. Although difficult to make out all of the information in the near darkness, I did learn many interesting facts, like, for example, that nocturnal animal eyes have an extra structure called the tapetum lucidum, which reflects light from the back of the eye back to the retina to magnify the light and enable better vision. Although the exhibit didn't explain this, I think this is probably why the eyes of nocturnal animals glow at night (it is). Anyway, any of you who know me, know I'm a nerd for this kind of knowledge (e.g. my freaky knowledge of many things marsupial), so I of course loved this place.


I didn't take many/any pictures inside this enclosure though for obvious reasons (little light, didn't want to shock the systems of nocturnal animals with my flash), but here are some highlights/observations.


1) Aardvarks look like cartoons. 
2) Armadillos move like wind-up toys.
3) There is a creature called a Japanese giant salamander that is easily 5 ft. long.
4) Standing in front of a huge cage of airborne bats is exhilarating. A rush of shadows flitting past you, and a gentle, chaotic breeze from a multitude of tiny wings. Its the same kind of thrill you get from a sudden thunderstorm. Wish I could have somehow captured it in photograph/video for you guys.


I did manage one photo of an American alligator. This zoo does an excellent job of creating enclosures that disappear the fourth wall between the exhibited and the voyeur. See for yourself:

Yowsa! Good thing there's glass between us

Of course, I had to visit the cats while I was there. Although most of them were crashed out in the heat, I did have a lovely moment with a three legged tiger. According to the placard, her leg had been amputated when she was still a cub. It didn't stop her from mothering three cubs of her own, or apparently from getting around. I was kind of fascinated by her (what can I say, I'm a fan of the freaks). 

Isn't she pretty? 

I also took a tour on the Skyfari, which is kind of like a ski lift tour across the length of the zoo. Pretty incredible to see the whole zoo and several of its animals from the air. Here are some highlights:

View from my flying seat. No, that's not a child's hand. That's my own freakishly small hand. 

Better picture of the giraffe, without my tiny doll hand 

Monkey mom and babe crossing the pond

Rhino with requisite pile o' poo

I also checked out the aquarium, which, though smallish, had some attractions, such as the jellies:

And penguins:

Bro-mance: the bird edition

This little guy took quite a shine to me, or maybe I'm anthropomorphizing him.

Before leaving, I took a tour of the primate area, and particularly the gorilla enclosure (which apparently is rather famous). 


Not to be lazy in my descriptions, but a picture, as they say, is worth a thousand words, so:

Orangutan stealing a snack

Gorilla portrait (that stuff on his lips? yeah that's his own poo he's eating).

This particular gorilla appeared to be air drumming for quite some time (Casey Carroll, this is an ode to you). Sorry that it is sideways. Me being the luddite that I am, I couldn't figure out how to flip it around (help technophiles!).

By the time I was finished watching these remarkable beasties, the zoo was closing, so I hightailed it over to the Old Market neighborhood of Omaha for a cold brew and some atmospheric wandering. I found a particularly great vintage shop to explore and distract myself with. And found a couple of cheapo beauties to bring back as souvenirs, such as these quirky ladies:

I may not have found a cowboy, but I found me some funky cowboy boots I'm rather keen on (to replace my brokedown, hole-infested ones back home).

Afterwards, I called Colleen, earlier than our arranged time, and lo and behold, she and Emily were ready for me. After some awkward moments of plan negotiation (the wages of two indecisive and accommodating people trying to accommodate each other), we finally settled on me joining them at their apartment for dinner and then a trip to a local bar that Emily promised would be a excellent writing fodder. I was intrigued, of course, and hurried on over.


A word on Colleen and Emily: I have been very fortunate with my couchsurfing experience, and staying with these two wonderful women is no exception. I knew we would get along immediately because of two key moments that happened immediately upon arrival:


1) Upon sitting down on their couch, Colleen brought out an amazing find that she acquired from work (she works at a used bookstore). This beautiful Moroccan leather book turned out to be a book by J.H. Kellogg, M.D. (of Kellogg corn flakes fame) entitled Plain Facts for Old and Young: Embracing the Natural Hygiene of Organic Life. Though it doesn't sound like it, this is one sexy tome, including sections such as "Senile Sensuality," and "Brunettes Precocious" (apparently, according to Kellogg, brunettes hit puberty earlier than blondes, thus contesting the long held belief that blondes have more fun). There's much much more ridiculousness in this little gem, but suffice to say, the fact that this was my entree into the O'Doherty-Borgmann home signaled to me that we would get along famously.


2) Not only did these lovely lasses have a record player, but Aretha Franklin was in circulation. "Do you like Aretha?" Asked Colleen innocently. "Do I?! I named my Kia Soul after her!" We both got chills.


After a bountiful feast of salad and pizza, and many hours of talking about everything on this earth, it was time for us to embark on our adventure into the wildnerness.


And I do mean wilderness. The bar they were taking me to, affectionately and peculiarly called the Alpine Club, was a bit of a drive away. It became even more adventurous by some unclear directions which led us down a very dark and very bumpy dirt road. Amidst jokes that they were actually going to kill me and leave me in the woods (I was nonplussed) we finally arrived at our destination.

Though it may have been local custom, we did not indulge in Pucker shots

Now, I've saved the best for last, that is, what the main attraction to this bar is. Apparently, this place has a reputation for its fried chicken, but not because it's particularly good, but because the bones and leavings are used to entice the very large population of raccoons that live around the bar to come and dine in front of their large picture window. Yes, you heard right: people come to this bar to watch raccoons and stray cats fight over chicken bones.


Anyone who knows me knows that I'm not the biggest fan of raccoons. They kinda creep me out with their freaky human-like hands. However, anyone who knows me, also knows that I am a fan of weird shit, so this was right up my alley. We stayed for a while, talking, and laughing, and soaking up the David Lynchian atmosphere of this dive bar, while outside, dozens of raccoons fought over chicken scraps. Truly an original and never-before-seen moment of surreality. Thanks Colleen and Emily!

One of our visitors. Note his glowing eyes, a.k.a tapetum lucidum at work (yes, I am a nerd)

Eventually the novelty of watching large rodent-like critters scrounge for scraps wore off and we headed back home and called it a night.


In the morning, the three of us bonded some more, over cups of coffee, delicious egg scramble and cream of wheat breakfast, and long bouts of wordless writing (yes, I lucked into a house with two writers!). Then Emily shuffled off to an acupuncture appointment, and Colleen and I continued to write together, until now, when I've finished with this epic post and now must hurry to get myself on the road to head out to Davenport, Iowa. 


Adios muchachos! Til next time!